My youth is associated with the trips to Ha Giang. Every time, no matter what Ha Giang travel schedule is, I am overwhelmed by the natural scenery here, strangely beautiful. On this trip I went with a friend and was introduced to a very famous craft village here, which is Lung Tam weaving village.
One autumn day at the end of August, my friend and I decided to return to Ha Giang again, the reason is just missing Ha Giang so much and another important reason is that we want to learn about the famous weaving village. Lung Tam, a place we have never been to before.
Road to the rocky plateau
Lung Tam brocade weaving village is located in Lung Tam commune, Quan Ba district, Ha Giang province. To come to Lung Tam village you start to leave Ha Giang city, go about 50km to the twin mountains and Quan Ba heaven gate. Then, go down the pass through Tam Son town, then pass Tam Son gas station for a few more kilometers to reach the place called Cua Tay Ao in Coc Ma village (there are 7 crabs). At the seventh crab, turn right onto a small road leading to Lung Tam Ha Giang.
This is a traditional profession with a long history, not only bringing income to households in Lung Tam village but also contributing to preserving traditional cultural values of the Mong people. If you do not get someone, you will easily ignore the weaving village on the journey to discover Dong Van rocky plateau. Not far from Quan Ba heaven gate, Hop Tien village of Lung Tam commune is home to H’mong copper (Mong) copper with long-standing brocade weaving.
Lung Tam land is a small valley between four rocky surfaces and the river Mien (Mem) flows through.
To reach this land, riders will have to cross the winding slopes of the mountainside, coinciding with flying clouds or mist. Lung Tam weaving village is a special thing that only grows flax, whereas most H’Mong practice in this rocky plateau is to grow maize in rocky holes in the arid mountains.
The people are weaving.
Located on the peaceful Trang Kem river, along with Dong Ha and Can Ty communes; Lung Tam commune (Quan Ba) is gradually getting out of poverty with the available strong resources of the locality. The Lang Tam Weaving Village is a locality nestled among the mountain peaks of foggy rock in four seasons. This is the residence of the ethnic Mongolian famous for weaving linen, dyed indigo and painted beeswax, this is also where “only wear linen, I will not be lost ancestors …”
There was a TV Traditionally, each Mong woman in adulthood has her own fields for growing flax. Flax fields grew evenly for just over two months and were harvested. The Mong people cut them and then dried them for processing into fibers.
Flax fibers.
Looking down from the sky gate , Lung Tam is a commune nestled among misty rocky peaks in cloudy seasons. This is the residence of the Hmong people famous for their linen weaving, indigo dyeing and wax painting, this is also the place where: “Only by wearing linen, we cannot lose our ancestors …”
People meticulously care for each stage.
The main material to make brocade sheets is from flax fibers. The flax trees are planted in the commune or the vicinity and carefully selected, after soaking and plucking will split into small fibers. Next, the H’mong women will boil and steam the soft flax fibers. The dyeing stitch is also very special. All colors are made from the leaves of forest trees such as tea, guava or brown roots or other woods with absolutely no industrial chemicals.
The Mong often weave by looms. After the fabric is woven, it must be washed over and over again to make it very white. The cloth is then spread over the log, and then scrubbed away with the beeswax stone, slipping again until the cloth is flat.
Mong women are not only good at weaving, but their dyeing technique is also unique, hard to match. soak again, repeating like that about five or six times. The next step is to dry and then dye again, just like that a dozen more times to finish. Making good linen is the pride of every Mong woman, perhaps that’s why they are always cautious in every step, whether it’s stretching or threading. All stages are handcrafted according to methods from the past to now.
The flax fibers are being dried
In a story with us, Ms. Vang Thi Mai – the head of Hop Tien Linen Textile Cooperative, said that the Mong people love linen because it has stronger strength than cotton. In addition, according to the conception of the people, linen is considered as the strong connection between man and the spiritual world. They believe that flax fibers are the guiding thread for the dead to return to their ancestors and reincarnate as a human.
For the Mong, weaving also shows skillfulness and hard work and becomes one of the criteria for evaluating a woman’s talent and virtue. Because of this careful dyeing, the indigo color of the Mong is very durable and eye-catching. And although weaving a cloth takes a lot of effort, the boys and girls in Lung Tam are still meticulously every day to protect a unique culture that their ancestors leave behind.
Start the weaving process.
Prepare to boil and steam the flax fibers.
One of the special things that create a brand of linen is the creation of patterns, patterns on skirts, headscarves, belts or diapers … It is demonstrated by the techniques of hand embroidery, coloring fabric and drawing. beeswax pattern. This is a difficult stage, requiring meticulousness, ingenuity and creativity of the craftsman. Indigo dyeing is hard work, takes a long time and requires high patience. To have the desired indigo black color, the fabric must be dyed again and again many times over several days.
People often soak cloth in indigo solution for about an hour, then take it out to drain and then soak again. That process is repeated 5-6 times before bringing the fabric to dry. When the cloth dries, it is re-immersed; just like that about 8-10 times. The time to soak the fabric in glossy black water depends much on the weather. In a dry period, each piece of fabric only takes 3-4 days to be dyed; But if it rains, let the fabric dry for a long time, that time can sometimes last up to 2 months. Because of this careful dyeing, the indigo color of the H’Mong here is very durable and always gives a fresh feeling.
Finished linen.
Lung Tam is the most famous weaving village in Ha Giang . With a long history of crafting, Lung Tam brocade weaving village, Lung Tam commune, Quang Ba district, Ha Giang province is not only the main source of income for hundreds of households, but also a place to preserve and save. keep the traditional values of the people here. Up to now, Lung Tam flax products are made more and more and the quality is constantly increasing.
These products have followed many visitors all over the country and have also been exported to more than 20 countries, in which, there are special favorite markets such as the US, Japan, France, Switzerland. … These products all over the country are favored by customers for their unique features with traditional natural materials.
The woman in Lung Tam.
Children from Lung Tam.
Bright face.
The women of Lung Tam.
On the way to the field.
Linen is not only durable, but is also known as a healthy product, not moldy, with high adsorption capacity, giving the skin a fresh air every time you wear. It is also for the unique reason that the demand for linen, especially from foreign customers, is increasingly high. This is really a great opportunity for cushioning products, bags, clothes … cultural products that are both wild and splendid of the misty land that attracts tourists to Ha Giang tourism.
The kid in the highlands.
Winding, winding road.
Yen Minh pine forest.
Goodbye Lung Tam, my friend and I continue walking on the roads to reach the rocky plateau. Initially the two of them planned to stay in Dong Van, but since it was too late, we decided to stop at Meo Vac and choose Auberge de Meo Vac to stay.
The Auberge de MeoVac also has another name called “They” in the language of the Hmong, where most of the Hmong live, so the architecture and way of life are also Hmong with yin-yang roofs, walls The building is made of land, wooden columns in Sa Moc, everyone in the village as well as tourists come here mainly on foot or by car, so the space is very quiet.
Relax with the Auberge de Meo Vac.
The guests at Auberge de Meo Vac.
Front of the Auberge de Meo Vac.
Ha Giang tourism, land of poetic legends about Mount Doi in Quan Ba or enchanting pine forests in Yen Minh, or the majestic rocky mountains of Dong Van rocky plateau. Whatever your travel schedule in Ha Giang, you should also go through the winding slopes like silk to reach the countryside of the charming Lung Tam brocade colors nestled among the misty rocky mountains in four seasons. covered. Try to visit this Lung Tam weaving village once!
Photo: Internet