Going to Mu Cang Chai in winter, getting sunstroke in the afternoon of Mo De

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It’s not the season of ripe rice, nor the season of pouring water. In winter, Mu Cang Chai has a strange beauty, both with the fields waiting for the new crop and full of life with thick flowers.

Khao Mang Hydropower Plant is like a green dragon in the middle of the mountains and forests - Photo: NAM TRAN
Khao Mang Hydropower Plant is like a green dragon in the middle of the mountains and forests – Photo: NAM TRAN

Drunk in the afternoon light at Mo De

Leisurely riding a motorbike to explore the strange season in Mu Cang Chai , Mr. Giang A Lu – a local friend – led us on a “very strange” route that not many tourists know about. According to A Lu’s recommendation, going to this palace will never be forgotten.

From the center of Mu Cang Chai town, we turned onto the small concrete road leading to Mo De commune, where high mountains on one side hug Mu Cang Chai town, the other side borders Phinh Ho commune (district Van Ban, Lao Cai).

Fat goats looking for grass in the fields - Photo: NAM TRAN
Fat goats looking for grass in the fields – Photo: NAM TRAN

On both sides of the road, forest canopy covers and provides shade, the scenery is wild but full of poetry. Amidst the immense green of the mountains, the cool breeze blowing on my face, the murmuring sound of a distant stream makes my soul feel healed after all the chaos and fatigue of the past year.

The population density here is not high, occasionally there are a few lovely houses. And especially, in Mo De, many Mong people’s houses are still roofed with Po Mu wood from a long time ago, a type of wood that is highly durable even when exposed to rain or sun.

Along the road of about 20km, we were amazed by the majestic and strange scenery. This season, Mu Cang Chai does not have green or yellow terraced fields of rice, nor does it have the iridescent scenery of the pouring water season, but for those who like to explore, this will be a great season to experience.

From the road high on the top of the mountain, the whole town of Mu Cang Chai seems to be in sight. Far away, Khao Mang hydroelectric lake is like a blue dragon sparkling in the sunset. The scene makes everyone who sees it drunk, even without alcohol.

This season, the terraced fields are left with only stubble, looking bare with the brown color of the soil. Occasionally, we see fat goats munching on pieces of grass on the side of the fields. Sometimes there are a few chickens, geese, and black pigs wandering around looking for food on the side of the road.

We didn’t stop anywhere for long, we simply walked and admired and inhaled the fresh air of Mu Cang Chai. But truly, any frame saved in my memory on this road is beautiful and impressive.

After more than two hours of traveling in Mo De, we returned to the center of Mu Cang Chai town, recharged and ready for new discoveries.

Thick flowers in La Pan Tan grow naturally in the fields, on the hills, and next to the houses of the Mong people - Photo: NAM TRAN
Thick flowers in La Pan Tan grow naturally in the fields, on the hills, and next to the houses of the Mong people – Photo: NAM TRAN

Spring comes to La Pan Tan

Different from the wildness and rusticity of terraced fields waiting for the new crop, La Pan Tan commune is filled with spring colors with thick flower petals that paint the Mong village pink. Mu Cang Chai is in spring!

The road to La Pan Tan is also winding and winding but is somewhat easier to travel than the road to Mo De. Through the hills of sticky rice sprouts that are only deep brown, through the hills dim in the winter morning mist, each thick flower tree – the peach blossom of the Mong people gradually appears. 

From a few lonely trees standing along the roadside, the deeper you go, the more this flower appears, signaling that spring has come, the people of Mu Cang Chai are preparing for a new season.

Children hanging out together - Photo: NAM TRAN
Children hanging out together – Photo: NAM TRAN

Winter here is not as gloomy as Hanoi. It’s cold but sunny. The slanting sunlight makes the thick wings shimmer even more. On the side of the road, Mong women take advantage of the sun to bask in the sun and embroider brocade patterns on fabric. That’s what they often do in their free time.

Sea of ​​clouds in La Pan Tan - Photo: NAM TRAN
Sea of ​​clouds in La Pan Tan – Photo: NAM TRAN

“Turn right, at the fork, turn down” – we followed the instructions of the local people, in fact we finally arrived at our destination – Trong Tong village. This is the village with the thickest number of flowers and every tree is tall and grows naturally all over the hillside.

Looking at the children dressed in traditional Hmong costumes frolicking, playing on the swing, giggling under the canopy of bright roses… we felt like we were returning to our childhood, forgetting all our worries, eagerly looking forward to the coming of Tet. .

Well, this is the season here, Mu Cang Chai is a very strange season!

 ( According to Tuoitre)

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