‘Year of Covid’, the Saigon people at midnight buy dong leaves to pack Banh Chung for Tet

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Due to the influence of Covid-19, the buyers were less than every year, but the Saigon dong leaf market on Cach Mang Thang Tam Street (Tan Binh District) was still bustling from December 20, many people at midnight went to buy leaves to pack. banh Chung for Tet.

Busy Dong Leaf Market at midnight in Saigon /// Photo: Independence

Busy Dong Leaf Market at midnight in SaigonPHOTO: INDEPENDENTE

very year, every year through the full moon of December, the field of the leaves appears on Cach Mang Thang Tam Street, the section near Ong Ta junction (Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City). This is known as one of the famous copper leaf markets in Saigon because it specializes in providing leaves of sufficient origin and quality with enough prices to serve the people of the city to pack cakes for Tet.

40 years selling leaves on the pavement of Saigon

Ms. Hoang Thi Thu (from Gia Kiem, Dong Nai), although 47 years old, has nearly 40 years of experience selling copper leaves in front of Tan Binh primary school with her sister. On a regular basis, she does the wholesale business, but every December 15, she displays the leaves on the corner of the street to serve her customers.

'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight bought dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 1The vermicelli sellers here have a seniority of 20 years or morePHOTO: INDEPENDENT
'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight bought dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 2Saigon dong leaf market specializes in providing dong leaves of all origins and prices according to each customer’s requestPHOTO: INDEPENDENT
'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight bought dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 3Dong leaves are priced from 30,000, 50,000 or 100,000, 120,000 VND depending on quality and designPHOTO: INDEPENDENT

The leaf stalls of Ms. Thu and her sister are the oldest and also the most expensive counter here. Because there are many termites such as bakeries, small traders in markets and retail customers, her sisters sell about 200 VND per day (1 gift includes 1,000 leaves, each bundle of 50 leaves).According to Ms. Thu, in the past, every house in Gia Kiem area had leaf bushes in the back of the house, but recently this area is planned so that the leaves have become scarce. 

To have enough goods to supply for customers, Ms. Thu has to add Ba Diem (Hoc Mon) and Bac Dong.She said: “The Bac Dong leaf is very beautiful, the package is wonderful, but the leaves are many so the price is cheap, ranging from 30,000 VND, 50,000 VND to 100,000 VND / bundle depending on the quality. Customers come to buy the most from 22:00 to 2 am, every day is the same, but the night of December 22 is always the peak ”.

'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight bought dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 4The busiest wholesale scene is from 22:00 a.m. to 2 a.m.PHOTO: INDEPENDENT
'Year of Covid', at midnight Saigon people buy dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 5The bronze leaf counter of Mrs. Thu’s sisters was the first one at Ong Ta Crossroads areaPHOTO: INDEPENDENT

'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight bought dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 6In addition to the leaves, there are also cakes and flat (split from the tube) used to wrap cakes.PHOTO: INDEPENDENT

Next to the counter of Ms. Thu’s sisters is the leaf counter of Ms. Nguyen Thi Kim Phung (60 years old, living in District 3). From the age of 5-7, Mrs. Thu followed her mother to sell leaves at Cau Muoi market, so she understood the origin, packaging and selling method.

Later, when she had her own family, her mother allowed her to open a private stall. In 2003, she sold it at this Ong Ta T-junction. Having become a habit, after a year of trading with all kinds of bread , refreshments, rice paper mixed alternately, every December 20, Mrs. Phung took the leaves to sell.

“I am from the South, but in Saigon there are many North people, banh chung is an indispensable dish for Tet, every occasion I have to sell, it becomes a habit. On the full moon of December, I will contact my acquaintances and then deliver them according to their appointment, then on the 20th, I will move out here ”, said Phung

Enough money to spend Tet

For a long time, Mrs. Phung has many acquaintances that are bakeries, but the amount of consumption is only about 20 million / day. This year, due to epidemics, she sold more slowly than last year, the leaves are not as beautiful as last year because last year had a leap month.

'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight bought dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 7Three generations of Mrs. Trang’s family sold together in the last days of DecemberPHOTO: INDEPENDENT
'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight bought dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 8This year’s leaves are taken from Hanoi, Gia Kiem, Bao Loc, Madagui, …PHOTO: INDEPENDENT
'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight bought dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 9The children enjoyed being able to go to the fieldPHOTO: INDEPENDENT

She confided: “Every day I sell 24/24, sell all the day 29, then leave. Often people go out to buy more at night, only sell in the daytime. Last year the most crowded were December 22, 25, and 26. 

Commission for sale here, no cash costs just we clean and clean. Each time I finish, I earn five or seven million Tet, enough lucky money for my children and grandchildren to go to the pagoda.Mrs. Phung’s sister, Mrs. Nguyen Thi Kim Trang (63 years old, living in District 1) also sells a separate stall in this area. Ms. Trang is called a “veteran” by many people because of the long sale and the predestined sale.

'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight bought dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 10The bustling wholesale scene at the dong leaf market at midnightPHOTO: INDEPENDENT

'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight buy dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 11This is also a familiar buying point for families who want to pack their own banh chung for TetPHOTO: INDEPENDENT
'Year of Covid', the Saigon people at midnight bought dong leaves to pack the banh chung for Tet - photo 12Saigon dong leaf market is open from December 15 to 29, open 24/24, sellers eat and sleep at the counter. After each Tet season, each seller usually earns enough money to spend Tet. PHOTO: INDEPENDENT

Every day, Mrs. Trang sells water in Cau Muoi market area, and in December, she sells the leaves. For a long time, she has many patrons. When the package comes, she calls for her to deliver the leaves. Seeing her miserable night selling, her son and little grandchildren selling side by side, she half jokingly said that she would continue to pass the profession to her son the same way her mother did her.

Mr. Pham Huu Thong (64 years old, living in District 3) said his hometown Hanoi, this year could not translate so he came here to buy leaves to pack the cake. He plans to pack 40 cakes for the whole family to celebrate Tet and give gifts to acquaintances, so he buys leaves and leaves available.

He said: “On December 27, I just wrapped it, but bought the leaves from 23 to clean it, tied it to the foot of the table to make the leaves soft, slightly wilted, but flexible enough, a beautiful package. After wrapping, wash it and then press it for 5-6 hours for as long as it takes. I shape the mold by hand, but do not buy wooden mold. Any North native can do it and know these secrets, so every year I am diligent to buy leaves and pack them ”.

Thanh Nien Online

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